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National Galleries of Scotland - Artist David Allan
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This article will be examining Scottish Clothing in the Carolinas prior to 1776. Scottish dress whether it be knitted bonnets, plaid stockings, plaid coats, gowns and jackets are documented in the Carolinas. Inventories, newspaper advertisements help us understand what is available in the Carolinas (both North and South) during the period before 1776. There are references to these textiles and accessories found post 1776 and that is something we can look into at a later point.
I spoke about scotch bonnets in a previous blog article but for those who don't know, scotch bonnets are a knitted cap that is fulled by shrinking the woolen fibers to make it resistant to the weather. These are usually noted as a "blue bonnet" in runaway ads or as a "scotch bonnet". These were available for purchase as early as 1758 in South Carolina. I do want to note that early North Carolina newspapers are not as easily available as the ones from South Carolina and the other colonies.
Scotch or Blue Bonnet references:
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The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC Friday October 20 1758
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The advertisement lists imported goods from Scotland on the "Live Oak" vessel - a variety of Scotch and Irish textiles as well as Tartan or Scotch plaids and blue bonnets.
 | | New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina. |
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This inventory is of Captain James McDonough's estate from New Hanover County, NC dated October of 1760. At the bottom of the inventory it lists several clothing items including: 1 pr of silver knee buckles, 1 old shoe buckle, 4 cloaks, 1 hat and 3 bonnets. My best guess that these are blue bonnets. If someone reads this different, please let me know.
Imported Goods in the Carolinas
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| The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston, SC-March 19, 1763 |
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| Imported Goods on the "Little Carpenter" March 1763 - Robert Hogg Account Book - Southern Historical Collection, UNC-Chapel Hill, NC |
6 Scotch Bonnets priced at 3/10 for a value of 1 pound 3 shillings. Sold in Charleston, South Carolina in 1763 at their store.
Robert Hogg was a merchant who sold items both in Charleston, SC and Wilmington, NC. His ledger books are at the Southern Historical Collection at UNC-Chapel Hill and only 1 of the many ledgers have been digitalized so far. So much more information to be found for sure!
Runaway Advertisements:
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| The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC July 31, 1762 |
Runaway mulatto man named John from South Carolina with a variety of clothing but the most notable was a Scotch bonnet and the implication that he will pretend to be "free."
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| The North Carolina Weekly Gazette, New Bern NC Dec 24, 1773 |
Runaway Advertisement noting of a runaway enslaved man named "Shie" from Anson County, North Carolina wearing a "Scotch" bonnet and a Dutch blanket. Anson County is located near the NC/SC border and adjacent to Cumberland County as well.
Plaid stockings
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| NC Gazette and Wilmington Weekly Post-Boy, Wilmington NC Feb 26, 1766 pg.3 |
This is the only account that I have found of plaid stockings in North Carolina or for all the Carolinas. Imported goods from Leith and Glasgow in February of 1766 to be sold at William Watkins store in Wilmington, NC. Scotch plaid and plaid stockings are listed for sale. We can find references to plaid stockings available in Virginia as early as the 1750s particularly on runaways and then for sale in the 1770s but this seems to be the only reference so far for the Carolinas.
Scots Plaids or Tartans
They can be found imported into South Carolina from 1734-1775 and then into North Carolina per the 1750s-60s. Here are a few references to them as textiles and as clothing items.
We find a runaway enslaved woman named Bella in South Carolina wearing a "scotch plaid" gown in the 1740s.
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| The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston, SC March 8 1740 pg.3 |
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| The SC and American General Gazette, Charleston SC October 14, 1768 pg.3 |
We have a runaway advertisement from Charleston in 1768 of a woman named Hannah who is listed as wearing an "old plaid jacket" ozenbrig petticoat.
In the estate of Aller/Eller McKeller in Cumberland County, NC 1769 - list 2 yards of Green Tartan, another 1 1/4 yd of Green tartan purchased as well as 1 green coat.
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Account record for the estate of Aller McKeller, Cumberland County, NC November 1768 Estate records of Cumberland County - Estates Records, McInnish, Donald-McKinnon, Murdock, 1663-1978 |
In the sale of John Curry's estate in 1771 we see several pieces of clothing including 1 tartan coat which was worth 1 pound and 4 pence.

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Sale of John Curry's estate in 1771; Cumberland County, NC; Notes: Estates Records, Collins, John Henry-Denning, Martin D, 1663-1978
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Does these findings give us some answers? I hope so. They do give us a glimpse of what was available for those living in the Carolinas prior to 1776. I can't think of anyy witty comments or conclusions to this blog post. I will conclude with one final newspaper clipping describing the clothing on some "Scotch Torries" who broke out of a jail in Maryland after the battle of Moore's Creek in December 1776.
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| The Virginia Gazette, Williamsburg, VA Feb 7 1777 pg.2 |
Kenneth McDonald, Alexander McCleod, Daniel McCleod and Murdoch McCastle; were listed as four Scotch Tories from North Carolina. Three of the men had on blue jackets while Murdoch had on a green coat. Does the color of the jacket/coat signify anything of importance for Scottish people? Just food for thought.
Hope you enjoyed this latest post!
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