Hunting Shirts in the Carolinas - Part 1

 

Museum of the American Revolution

I'm going to preface this blog post with the following........

Sharing is caring and that I am no means an expert when it comes to Hunting Shirts however, I'm sharing what research I have found and by putting the information out there in a blog post will hopefully bring more awareness to these items and their significance in material culture.

Hunting Shirts

In my opinion the leading expert in hunting shirts is Neal Hurst.......and I will bow down to the King of Hunting Shirts (that's my nickname I have given him as a sign of reverence). Attached is Neal's thesis on hunting shirts in America for those who haven't read it.  It's a great resource.  https://www.academia.edu/3336557/_kind_of_armour_being_peculiar_to_America_The_American_Hunting_Shirt?source=swp_share

Now back to our normal schedule.....

Hunting shirts appear in the backcountry of North Carolina in early 1760s.  This was the first one that I found in NC.   It is in the inventory of Daniel Prichard who died 1763 but his estate was not sold off until 1765.  Underlined is the hunting shirt he had in his estate which was sold for 7 shillings and 2 pence.  Also within in estate was a pair of leather breeches which sold for 11 shillings and several Indian blankets and linen leggings which is listed on this page and sold for 2 shillings.

Daniel Prichard estate sale 1765 Burke County, NC - Source: North Carolina County, District and Probate Courts. Burke County Wills and Estate Papers

Here we have another estate record with reference to a hunting shirt "hunten shirt" being sold in the estate of Nicholason Ross of Mecklenburg, County, North Carolina in 1774.   Hunting shirt sold for 4 shillings, 8 pence. 

Sale of Nicholason Ross estate, Mecklenburg County, NC 1774: Wills and Estate Papers (Mecklenburg County), 1663-1978; Author: North Carolina. Division of Archives and History (Raleigh, North Carolina)

Then we have the 1777 inventory of John Williams of Mecklenburg County where they list a variety of clothing including leather breeches, cloth and leather leggins and then we have a hunting shirt.  What I think is interesting is the value of the shirt at 1 pound and 11 shillings.  Much more valuable than the shirt seen only 3 years earlier.

 Sale of John Williams Estate - Mecklenburg County, NC 1777 - Wills and Estate Papers (Mecklenburg County), 1663-1978; Author: North Carolina. Division of Archives and History (Raleigh, North Carolina)

Inventory of John Williams, Cumberland County, NC 1779-80:  Wills and Estate Papers (Cumberland County), 1663-1978; Author: North Carolina. Division of Archives and History (Raleigh, North Carolina)

Then we have the estate sale of John Matthews from Cumberland County, NC 1779-80.   This is the further east I have seen reference to a hunting shirt listed.    It took me a minute to figure out that "Shourt = Shirt"   I also conferred with Neal Hurst and he agrees that it's a hunting shirt. 

And our final hunting shirt comes out of an inventory in Lincoln County, NC in 1782.  It belonged to John King.   This time the hunting shirt along with a pair of stockings sold for 9 shillings.

1782 Estate of John King - Lincoln County, NC Estate Records, Killian, Andrew-Kistler, Elizabeth, 1824-1964; 1772-1964; 1735-1914

To be honest, I am surprised that I have found this many hunting shirts listed in North Carolina estate records.  Also the range in value of the hunting shirts from 4 shillings up to 1 pound and change.  It makes you wonder how elaborate the hunting shirt that sold for 1 pound 11 shillings looked like.  

Runaway Ads

Since we are talking about the Carolinas (North and South Carolina) - this is (I believe) the only reference to hunting shirts in South Carolina newspapers.  (Again in the newspapers - not in estate or inventory records).   Listed on a runaway enslaved man named Jack from near Charleston SC in 1769.  Note he is wearing just the hunting shirt and no other shirt or jacket with it.

The South-Carolina Gazette; and Country Journal

Tue, Nov 14, 1769 ·Page 3

Then we have this 1773 runaway advertisement for a free man of color named Peter who was from Edenton but ended up in the Duplin County jail.   Peter is wearing an onzabrigs hunting shirt over his clothing.

North Carolina Gazette & Wilmington Weekly Post Boy: Wilmington NC Dec 29, 1773

Then we conclude with this runaway ad from 1777.   This is for a man named Leiw who belonged to a man from John Wilson in Charlotte, NC.   Leiw was wearing a white hunting shirt, pair of tow breeches and a half worn racoon hat. 

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"Virginia Gazette" Williamsburg, VA, June 1777

I wanted to add information about the use of hunting shirts in North Carolina during the Regulator movement (1771) and then the use of them by North Carolina Brigade during the American Revolution but figured it would be too much so there will be a part 2 of Hunting Shirts soon.

Dimity and HumHum Textiles

 With the warm weather soon to be arriving..... Light weight and white or off white colored textiles such as Hum Hum and Dimity can be found for clothing in the south.   Although light colored linens, printed cottons and chintzs were the more popular textile for gowns; hum hum and dimity do show up as an alternative textile.

"Textiles in America: 1650-1870" by Florence Montgomery pg. 220 - Indian dimities and figured dimities are shown on this page

Striped dimity from Burnley & Trowbridge (example from my dimity gown)

Dimity textiles

Evidence of Dimity being sold in the Carolinas shows up as early as the 1730s in Charleston. As seen listed here as "fine India dimitys"

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC Jan  1738 pg. 3

 

While this advertisement the list both plain, figured and corded white dimities imported.   

Imported by the late Kenneth & Benjamin Michie -
The South Carolina Gazette January 1st 1750 pg. 4

While the vessel "Charming Nancy" has imported "India" dimity and printed dimity.  What is fantastic about this advert is the variety of summer textiles, white calicos, white chintz and then the dimities. 

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC April 30 1750 pg. 2

North Carolina Gazette and Wilmington Weekly Post-Boy, Dec 29,1773 pg. 3

While in Wilmington, corded and flowered dimity is brought in via vessels from Bristol in late 1773.

So what is "dimity" used for in when constructing clothing items?   We see petticoats, gowns, as well for riding waistcoats and riding habit jackets and petticoats. 

The Public Advertiser; London England, May 30, 1772, pg. 3

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC Jul 12, 1740 pg. 4

Then we see this advertisement for a lost "India "Dimity gown faced with fine chints in Charleston SC, 1740.   It makes you wonder what the chintz fabric was it white or cream color?  

In a search for "dimity petticoat" - it gave me 83 hits from 1730-1783 newspapers covering both England and the US.   Most of the accounts are from England but there were notices for ready made dimity petticoats in SC or dimity to be made into petticoats.  

Bordered dimitites for petticoats " The South Carolina Gazette and Country Journal, Charleston SC March 24 1772 pg 4

"Broad and Narrow figured dimity for petticoats";

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC Jan 22 1756 pg.6 

Hum Hum textiles

Humhums or Hum Hum textiles are seen arriving in SC by the early 1740s and still available up until the 1780s.

The South Carolina Gazette; Charleston SC July 16,1763 p.2

White callicoes, chints and humhums along with India dimity are listed for sale in Charleston in 1763.  Normally hum hums and dimity are not listed together as textiles being sold but we do see it in this advertisement noted above.

The South Carolina and American General Gazette, Charleston SC; March 30, 1772 pg. 6

While this 1772 advertisement for the "Irish Linen Warehouse" in Charleston specifically names HumHums available for gowns along with plain, flowered, striped and check Muslins and then also printed linen and callico gowns available.  And the advertisement below lists "fine white humhums" for gowns also from 1772 Charleston South Carolina.

The South Carolina Gazette and Country Journal, Charleston SC May 12, 1772 pg 3

The only piece of hum hum clothing that I have found so far in the North Carolina is from an inventory from 1777 for Martha McKildo's estate of Edenton, NC where a "white 'hum hums' gown and petticoat" are listed and they were sold at the estate sale for 2 pounds and 1 shilling.

Sale of Estates 1745-1808, Chowan County, NC, Martha McKildo, April 2nd, 1777.

"Textiles in America: 1650-1870 by Florence Montgomery, pg 262

Although the textile description of Hum Hum is of a plain cotton cloth that was thick and stout in texture woven in Bengal.  Was hum hum considered a decent enough textile for summer weight gowns in the south?  I wonder since the hum hum gown and petticoat was worth 2 pounds and the 2 "old" callico gowns were only worth 1 pound and 12 shillings.  

Could we consider dimity being a more finer textile for summer wear versus hum hum?  Yet, in 1775, Hum-hums are available and sold as a variety of articles for the "summer season". 

The South Carolina and American General Gazette, Jun 2 1775 pg.1

Either textile would be a great addition to create a variety of summer clothing especially in the southern climates.   I haven't seen "hum-hums" available on the market for those reproducing 18th century clothing but "dimities" are available and are wonderful addition for summer time history clothing.

Scottish Clothing: Bonnets, Scotch plaids and plaid stockings and other associated clothing in the Carolinas

 

National Galleries of Scotland - Artist David Allan

This article will be examining Scottish Clothing in the Carolinas prior to 1776.  Scottish dress whether it be knitted bonnets, plaid stockings, plaid coats, gowns and jackets are documented in the Carolinas. Inventories, newspaper advertisements help us understand what is available in the Carolinas (both North and South) during the period before 1776.  There are references to these textiles and accessories found post 1776 and that is something we can look into at a later point. 

 

I spoke about scotch bonnets in a previous blog article but for those who don't know, scotch bonnets are a knitted cap that is fulled by shrinking the woolen fibers to make it resistant to the weather.    These are usually noted as a "blue bonnet" in runaway ads or as a "scotch bonnet".  These were available for purchase as early as 1758 in South Carolina.  I do want to note that early North Carolina newspapers are not as easily available as the ones from South Carolina and the other colonies.

Scotch or Blue Bonnet references: 

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC Friday October 20 1758

The advertisement lists imported goods from Scotland on the "Live Oak" vessel - a variety of Scotch and Irish textiles as well as Tartan or Scotch plaids and blue bonnets.

New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina.

This inventory is of Captain James McDonough's estate from New Hanover County, NC dated October of 1760.  At the bottom of the inventory it lists several clothing items including: 1 pr of silver knee buckles, 1 old shoe buckle, 4 cloaks, 1 hat and 3 bonnets.   My best guess that these are blue bonnets.   If someone reads this different, please let me know.

Imported Goods in the Carolinas

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston, SC-March 19, 1763

Imported Goods on the "Little Carpenter" March 1763 - Robert Hogg Account Book - Southern Historical Collection, UNC-Chapel Hill, NC

6 Scotch Bonnets priced at 3/10 for a value of 1 pound 3 shillings.  Sold in Charleston, South Carolina in 1763 at their store.

Robert Hogg was a merchant who sold items both in Charleston, SC and Wilmington, NC.  His ledger books are at the Southern Historical Collection at UNC-Chapel Hill and only 1 of the many ledgers have been digitalized so far.  So much more information to be found for sure!

Runaway Advertisements:

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC July 31, 1762

Runaway mulatto man named John from South Carolina with a variety of clothing but the most notable was a Scotch bonnet and the implication that he will pretend to be "free."

The North Carolina Weekly Gazette, New Bern NC Dec 24, 1773

Runaway Advertisement noting of a runaway enslaved man named "Shie" from Anson County, North Carolina wearing a "Scotch" bonnet and a Dutch blanket.  Anson County is located near the NC/SC border and adjacent to Cumberland County as well.

Plaid stockings

NC Gazette and Wilmington Weekly Post-Boy, Wilmington NC Feb 26, 1766 pg.3

This is the only account that I have found of plaid stockings in North Carolina or for all the Carolinas.  Imported goods from Leith and Glasgow in February of 1766 to be sold at William Watkins store in Wilmington, NC.   Scotch plaid and plaid stockings are listed for sale.   We can find references to plaid stockings available in Virginia as early as the 1750s particularly on runaways and then for sale in the 1770s but this seems to be the only reference so far for the Carolinas.  

Scots Plaids or Tartans

They can be found imported into South Carolina from 1734-1775 and then into North Carolina per the 1750s-60s.   Here are a few references to them as textiles and as clothing items.

We find a runaway enslaved woman named Bella in South Carolina wearing a "scotch plaid" gown in the 1740s. 

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston, SC March 8 1740 pg.3

The SC and American General Gazette, Charleston SC October 14, 1768 pg.3

We have a runaway advertisement from Charleston in 1768 of a woman named Hannah who is listed as wearing an "old plaid jacket" ozenbrig petticoat.


In the estate of Aller/Eller McKeller in Cumberland County, NC 1769 - list 2 yards of Green Tartan, another 1 1/4 yd of Green tartan purchased as well as 1 green coat.  

Account record for the estate of Aller McKeller, Cumberland County, NC November 1768 Estate records of Cumberland County - Estates Records, McInnish, Donald-McKinnon, Murdock, 1663-1978

In the sale of John Curry's estate in 1771 we see several pieces of clothing including 1 tartan coat which was worth 1 pound and 4 pence. 

Sale of John Curry's estate in 1771; Cumberland County, NC; Notes: Estates Records, Collins, John Henry-Denning, Martin D, 1663-1978

Does these findings give us some answers?  I hope so.   They do give us a glimpse of what was available for those living in the Carolinas prior to 1776.   I can't think of any witty comments or conclusions to this blog post.   I will conclude with one final newspaper clipping describing the clothing on some "Scotch Torries" who broke out of a jail in Maryland after the battle of Moore's Creek in December 1776.

The Virginia Gazette, Williamsburg, VA Feb 7 1777 pg.2

Kenneth McDonald, Alexander McCleod, Daniel McCleod and Murdoch McCastle; were listed as four Scotch Tories from North Carolina.  Three of the men had on blue jackets while Murdoch had on a green coat.   Does the color of the jacket/coat signify anything of importance for Scottish people?  Just food for thought.

Hope you enjoyed this latest post!  

What are men actually wearing in the Carolinas?

 Men's clothing sometimes can be easier to find than women's clothing when examining estate and inventory records in the 1700s.   Earlier in the period, clothing is listed more frequently but by the 1770s, household or trade goods are listed more often than clothing. In this post, I will examine men's clothing listed in estate and inventories from the following counties; Duplin, New Hanover and Cumberland, North Carolina.  

John Matchet, 1774 Duplin County, NC inventory of estate

John Matchet lived in Duplin County, NC and his inventory from his estate listed the following clothing items:  2 hats, 4 coats, 5 jacket, 3 pairs of breeches, 1 pr of trousers, 5 shirts, 2 prs of stockings, 1 pair of Indian boots, 1 pair of shoes and buckles, 1 silver shoe buckle, 1 pair of knee buckles, 1 stock buckle, 2 razors and 1 watch

Not much description of the textiles of his clothing but as you can see he has both coats and jackets and breeches and trousers.   One thing to note is the Indian boots.   I have seen these mentioned in other inventories like in A Holden's estate in 1774 again from Duplin County.   Are these moccasins or a boot that you would wear while hunting?

Maurice Nevin, 1767 New Hanover County, NC inventory of estate

Next we have Maurice Nevin of New Hanover County who estate was inventoried in 1767.  Again we see 2 coats, 2 pairs of breeches, 2 jackets, 3 pairs of Hose, 4 shirt, 2 handkerchiefs, 1 hat, 1 pair of shoes, 1 pair of silver buckles.    Are the 2 coats actually long bodied coats or are they waistcoats?  As there are no waistcoats listed in this inventory.   Also, the word hose is used instead of stockings.   Is this traditional hose or just a term used by the person carrying out the inventory?  Also note the 2 muskets and pistol listed at the top. 

Here we have the inventory of James Steele of Cumberland County in 1774.   He has 2 coats, 3 jackets, 1 pr of leather breeches, 2 prs of plush breeches, 1 pr of thread hose.  Down at the bottom of his inventory they list 2 coats and 2 prs of breeches

James Steele, 1774 Cumberland County, NC inventory of estate

Another 4 coats are listed but I wanted to point out that Mr. Steele was a freemason.  As he has 1 freemason apron, 1 pr of white gloves and a 1 T-- Wigg in his inventory.   Again, note razors, strops and shaving boxes listed in his estate.   I have seen other freemason items listed in a few other inventories across North Carolina.

Andrew Gunderson, 1774 Cumberland County NC inventory of estate

Here we have Andrew Gunderson's inventory and they list the following items.  1 old blue jacket, 3 old pairs of trousers, 2 old ozenbrig shirts, 2 old linen shirts, 1 old stamped jacket, 1 old pair of shoes, 7 shillings of Proclamation money.

Not much here but the two types of shirts, ozenbrig and linen. a blue jacket and a stamped jacket?  We find stamped fabric for women's clothing but for men's?   Would this maybe be a banyan of stamped linen or just a typical jacket?  

Richard Beaughan's inventory, 1771 Cumberland County NC

So here at Cross Creek, NC in Cumberland County we have the inventory of Richard Beaughan. 1 blue coat trimmed in silver buttons, 1 camblet coat, 1 surtout coat, 1 red jacket, 1 pr of doe skin breeches, 1 pr of shoes, 4 shirts, 1 pr of copper shoe buckles, 1 pr of silver knee buckles, 1 pr of sleeve buttons, 1 hat,

In this inventory we see a little bit of description of the clothing, blue coat with silver buttons and a red jacket and the copper shoe buckles.  This is the first time I have seen doe skin breeches listed.  Normally we see leather breeches noted in inventories and that is something I will go into for a later blog post. 

Inventory of James Bradley 1771 New Hanover County, NC

I'll conclude with this inventory of James Bradley who was a merchant in the Wilmington area.  His inventory is broken down into saleable goods like textiles and products that would be sold in his store and also furniture in his house.   

11 shirts, 14 cravats, 7 linen waistcoats, 7 prs of thread stockings, 6 nightcaps, 2 prs of nankeen breeches, 1pr of ticken breeches, 1pr of sheets, 4 coats & waistcoats, 2 prs of breeches, 1 camblet cloak, 1 pr of silver shoe and knee buckles, 8 tortoise shell jacket buttons, 1 pr of broken Scotch Pebble sleeve buttons, 1 silver watch, 1 wig and wig box and 1 hat.   The tortoise shell jacket buttons are interesting as well as the broken scotch pebble sleeve buttons.  Wonder what those looked like?

Thanks for checking out the blog.   What would you like to see more of?   Leather breeches, fancy coats and waistcoats listed?    There is more to explore and there is some amazing clothing in the Carolinas during the 18th century for sure. 

Women's Clothing on the cusp of Revolution

 Guess who's back from a hiatus?  Your friendly history nerd, clothing geek and researcher....

Back in 2024, we had the 250th anniversary of the Edenton Tea Party which was a fun event to participate at - Got to be fancy with a chintz gown, big hair and such.   Anyhoo.....Things are starting to kick off this year with the 250th anniversary of two major events here in North Carolina - the battle of Moore's Creek and the Halifax Resolves. So thought this would be a good time to bring the blog back to life and share what I've been researching for the past few months.

So what are women wearing in the early to mid 1770s in North Carolina?  Checked, black and white silk bonnets, black silk hats, red, blue and green cloaks, calico gowns, striped gowns, white linen gowns, "short" gowns, quilted petticoats and etc.   I'll examine a few inventories and wills to show what women are wearing here in North Carolina prior to 1776.

Amelia Mott, 1771 New Hanover County, North Carolina

Inventory of Amelia Mott, 1771 New Hanover County, NC.  Source: New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina. Superior Court (New Hanover County)

Amelia has the following items: 1 Caster hat, 1 red cloak, 1 black silk hat, 1 old striped gown, 1 calico gown, 1 green shirt coat (petticoat), 1 shift, 1 bedgowns, 1 blue quilted petty coat, 1 bed gown, 1 shift, 1 old check apron, 1 calico gown, 1 check apron, 1 pr of gloves, 1 white apron, 1 homespun gown, 1 striped blue gown, 1 white bed gown, 1 old shift, 1 apron, 1 apron.

I love that they give detail (of sorts) to the gowns, striped, calico, homespun and even a striped blue gown.  While her bedgowns are generic in listing though she does have a "white" bed gown. Also note the blue quilted petty coat.

Barsheba Jones, 1772 Johnston County, North Carolina

Will of Barsheba Jones, 1772 Johnston County North Carolina.  Source: Johnston County, North Carolina Wills; Author: North Carolina. County Court of Pleas and Quarter Sessions (Johnston County)

Then we move in land to Johnston County, North Carolina where I found this gem within the past few days and absolutely love it as Barsheba gives the following items to her daughter Margaret Smith:

  1 quilted petticoat, 2 shifts, 1 pr of shoes and shoe buckles, 1 pr of worsted stockings and garters, 1 cap and handkerchief, 1 checked apron, 1 checked bonnet, silver sleeve buttons, 1 pr of leather gloves and choice of all the gowns.   While the rest of her clothes to be equally divided amongst the rest of all her daughters.  You wonder what else did she have in her wardrobe?

You may have notice that I bolded the word checked bonnet.   Yep, checked bonnets are here in North Carolina.  This is probably the latest I have seen reference to them.  I wish they would have noted if the bonnet was made of silk or of linen.    

Mary McConnell, 1774 Guilford County, North Carolina

Now we move even further inland to Guilford County and we find the will of Mary McConnell dated November of 1774. So Mary leaves to her daughter Mary Blyne: one gown and petticoat, her cloak and one pair of best blankets.  She bequeaths to her one daughter Martha Leacky one petticoat, a wraper and some bed curtains, then to her younger daughter she gives her one of her gowns .   Then on the next page she lists:

Mary McConnell will, Guilford County, NC:  Wills, 1771-1943; Author: North Carolina. County Court of Pleas and Quarter Sessions (Guilford County) Notes: Wills, Vol A-B, 1771-1838

She gives Margaret McBride daughter to Francis McBride her corded poplin gown; she leaves her shoe buckles to her son and then Agnes the daughter of James Blayer receives her bonnet.    What exactly is corded poplin?  Is it safe to guess that maybe Mary is a Quaker?   I haven't found evidence of that yet but something to look into.

Dorothy Seares, 1774 Wilmington, North Carolina

Back at the coast and in Wilmington proper......Dorothy's inventory lists 1 green silk umbrella, then down below it lists: 1 calico gown, 1 white linen gown, 1 white apron, 2 white caps, 1 pr of silver shoe buckles, and 2 plain gold rings.   

Dorothy Seares, 1774 New Hanover County, estate record and sale. New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina. Superior Court (New Hanover County)

In the sale of her estate, they list a gown and apron being sold at 17 shillings, 8 pence; while another gown is sold for 1 pound, 1 shilling - which gown was worth more?  The calico gown or the white linen?

Then we conclude with the records of two men's estates.  The 1775 estates of William Wooten in Hyde County, NC and Dr. James Ward of New Hanover County, NC.

Estate sale of William Wooten, 1775 Hyde County, NC.  Source: Hyde County, North Carolina Estate Records, 1735-1944

Being sold are the following items: 1pr of stays, 1 quilt (guessing quilted petticoat); 1 chintz gown, 1 apron, a capshen, 1 pr of sleeves, 1 gown, 1 hood, wearing apparel, and a gown body.

While Dr. James Ward has a few ladies' items in his inventory such as: 2 sprigged aprons, 1 silk gauze cap, 1 white silk bonnet, 1/2 yard of ribbon, 1 fan and 1 paper box. and 2 1/4 yards of striped lawn.  I'll probably go back to examine his estate in a later blog as he has a plethora of textiles and clothing.

Inventory of Dr. James Ward 1775 New Hanover County, NC.   New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina. Superior Court (New Hanover County)

Thanks again for checking out my blog.   I hope you enjoyed these inventories and wills.   They let us have a sneak peek of the past and allow us to learn more.   Till next time.  Keep researching and always ask questions!