Scottish Clothing: Bonnets, Scotch plaids and plaid stockings and other associated clothing in the Carolinas

 

National Galleries of Scotland - Artist David Allan

This article will be examining Scottish Clothing in the Carolinas prior to 1776.  Scottish dress whether it be knitted bonnets, plaid stockings, plaid coats, gowns and jackets are documented in the Carolinas. Inventories, newspaper advertisements help us understand what is available in the Carolinas (both North and South) during the period before 1776.  There are references to these textiles and accessories found post 1776 and that is something we can look into at a later point. 

 

I spoke about scotch bonnets in a previous blog article but for those who don't know, scotch bonnets are a knitted cap that is fulled by shrinking the woolen fibers to make it resistant to the weather.    These are usually noted as a "blue bonnet" in runaway ads or as a "scotch bonnet".  These were available for purchase as early as 1758 in South Carolina.  I do want to note that early North Carolina newspapers are not as easily available as the ones from South Carolina and the other colonies.

Scotch or Blue Bonnet references: 

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC Friday October 20 1758

The advertisement lists imported goods from Scotland on the "Live Oak" vessel - a variety of Scotch and Irish textiles as well as Tartan or Scotch plaids and blue bonnets.

New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina.

This inventory is of Captain James McDonough's estate from New Hanover County, NC dated October of 1760.  At the bottom of the inventory it lists several clothing items including: 1 pr of silver knee buckles, 1 old shoe buckle, 4 cloaks, 1 hat and 3 bonnets.   My best guess that these are blue bonnets.   If someone reads this different, please let me know.

Imported Goods in the Carolinas

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston, SC-March 19, 1763

Imported Goods on the "Little Carpenter" March 1763 - Robert Hogg Account Book - Southern Historical Collection, UNC-Chapel Hill, NC

6 Scotch Bonnets priced at 3/10 for a value of 1 pound 3 shillings.  Sold in Charleston, South Carolina in 1763 at their store.

Robert Hogg was a merchant who sold items both in Charleston, SC and Wilmington, NC.  His ledger books are at the Southern Historical Collection at UNC-Chapel Hill and only 1 of the many ledgers have been digitalized so far.  So much more information to be found for sure!

Runaway Advertisements:

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston SC July 31, 1762

Runaway mulatto man named John from South Carolina with a variety of clothing but the most notable was a Scotch bonnet and the implication that he will pretend to be "free."

The North Carolina Weekly Gazette, New Bern NC Dec 24, 1773

Runaway Advertisement noting of a runaway enslaved man named "Shie" from Anson County, North Carolina wearing a "Scotch" bonnet and a Dutch blanket.  Anson County is located near the NC/SC border and adjacent to Cumberland County as well.

Plaid stockings

NC Gazette and Wilmington Weekly Post-Boy, Wilmington NC Feb 26, 1766 pg.3

This is the only account that I have found of plaid stockings in North Carolina or for all the Carolinas.  Imported goods from Leith and Glasgow in February of 1766 to be sold at William Watkins store in Wilmington, NC.   Scotch plaid and plaid stockings are listed for sale.   We can find references to plaid stockings available in Virginia as early as the 1750s particularly on runaways and then for sale in the 1770s but this seems to be the only reference so far for the Carolinas.  

Scots Plaids or Tartans

They can be found imported into South Carolina from 1734-1775 and then into North Carolina per the 1750s-60s.   Here are a few references to them as textiles and as clothing items.

We find a runaway enslaved woman named Bella in South Carolina wearing a "scotch plaid" gown in the 1740s. 

The South Carolina Gazette, Charleston, SC March 8 1740 pg.3

The SC and American General Gazette, Charleston SC October 14, 1768 pg.3

We have a runaway advertisement from Charleston in 1768 of a woman named Hannah who is listed as wearing an "old plaid jacket" ozenbrig petticoat.


In the estate of Aller/Eller McKeller in Cumberland County, NC 1769 - list 2 yards of Green Tartan, another 1 1/4 yd of Green tartan purchased as well as 1 green coat.  

Account record for the estate of Aller McKeller, Cumberland County, NC November 1768 Estate records of Cumberland County - Estates Records, McInnish, Donald-McKinnon, Murdock, 1663-1978

In the sale of John Curry's estate in 1771 we see several pieces of clothing including 1 tartan coat which was worth 1 pound and 4 pence. 

Sale of John Curry's estate in 1771; Cumberland County, NC; Notes: Estates Records, Collins, John Henry-Denning, Martin D, 1663-1978

Does these findings give us some answers?  I hope so.   They do give us a glimpse of what was available for those living in the Carolinas prior to 1776.   I can't think of any witty comments or conclusions to this blog post.   I will conclude with one final newspaper clipping describing the clothing on some "Scotch Torries" who broke out of a jail in Maryland after the battle of Moore's Creek in December 1776.

The Virginia Gazette, Williamsburg, VA Feb 7 1777 pg.2

Kenneth McDonald, Alexander McCleod, Daniel McCleod and Murdoch McCastle; were listed as four Scotch Tories from North Carolina.  Three of the men had on blue jackets while Murdoch had on a green coat.   Does the color of the jacket/coat signify anything of importance for Scottish people?  Just food for thought.

Hope you enjoyed this latest post!  

What are men actually wearing in the Carolinas?

 Men's clothing sometimes can be easier to find than women's clothing when examining estate and inventory records in the 1700s.   Earlier in the period, clothing is listed more frequently but by the 1770s, household or trade goods are listed more often than clothing. In this post, I will examine men's clothing listed in estate and inventories from the following counties; Duplin, New Hanover and Cumberland, North Carolina.  

John Matchet, 1774 Duplin County, NC inventory of estate

John Matchet lived in Duplin County, NC and his inventory from his estate listed the following clothing items:  2 hats, 4 coats, 5 jacket, 3 pairs of breeches, 1 pr of trousers, 5 shirts, 2 prs of stockings, 1 pair of Indian boots, 1 pair of shoes and buckles, 1 silver shoe buckle, 1 pair of knee buckles, 1 stock buckle, 2 razors and 1 watch

Not much description of the textiles of his clothing but as you can see he has both coats and jackets and breeches and trousers.   One thing to note is the Indian boots.   I have seen these mentioned in other inventories like in A Holden's estate in 1774 again from Duplin County.   Are these moccasins or a boot that you would wear while hunting?

Maurice Nevin, 1767 New Hanover County, NC inventory of estate

Next we have Maurice Nevin of New Hanover County who estate was inventoried in 1767.  Again we see 2 coats, 2 pairs of breeches, 2 jackets, 3 pairs of Hose, 4 shirt, 2 handkerchiefs, 1 hat, 1 pair of shoes, 1 pair of silver buckles.    Are the 2 coats actually long bodied coats or are they waistcoats?  As there are no waistcoats listed in this inventory.   Also, the word hose is used instead of stockings.   Is this traditional hose or just a term used by the person carrying out the inventory?  Also note the 2 muskets and pistol listed at the top. 

Here we have the inventory of James Steele of Cumberland County in 1774.   He has 2 coats, 3 jackets, 1 pr of leather breeches, 2 prs of plush breeches, 1 pr of thread hose.  Down at the bottom of his inventory they list 2 coats and 2 prs of breeches

James Steele, 1774 Cumberland County, NC inventory of estate

Another 4 coats are listed but I wanted to point out that Mr. Steele was a freemason.  As he has 1 freemason apron, 1 pr of white gloves and a 1 T-- Wigg in his inventory.   Again, note razors, strops and shaving boxes listed in his estate.   I have seen other freemason items listed in a few other inventories across North Carolina.

Andrew Gunderson, 1774 Cumberland County NC inventory of estate

Here we have Andrew Gunderson's inventory and they list the following items.  1 old blue jacket, 3 old pairs of trousers, 2 old ozenbrig shirts, 2 old linen shirts, 1 old stamped jacket, 1 old pair of shoes, 7 shillings of Proclamation money.

Not much here but the two types of shirts, ozenbrig and linen. a blue jacket and a stamped jacket?  We find stamped fabric for women's clothing but for men's?   Would this maybe be a banyan of stamped linen or just a typical jacket?  

Richard Beaughan's inventory, 1771 Cumberland County NC

So here at Cross Creek, NC in Cumberland County we have the inventory of Richard Beaughan. 1 blue coat trimmed in silver buttons, 1 camblet coat, 1 surtout coat, 1 red jacket, 1 pr of doe skin breeches, 1 pr of shoes, 4 shirts, 1 pr of copper shoe buckles, 1 pr of silver knee buckles, 1 pr of sleeve buttons, 1 hat,

In this inventory we see a little bit of description of the clothing, blue coat with silver buttons and a red jacket and the copper shoe buckles.  This is the first time I have seen doe skin breeches listed.  Normally we see leather breeches noted in inventories and that is something I will go into for a later blog post. 

Inventory of James Bradley 1771 New Hanover County, NC

I'll conclude with this inventory of James Bradley who was a merchant in the Wilmington area.  His inventory is broken down into saleable goods like textiles and products that would be sold in his store and also furniture in his house.   

11 shirts, 14 cravats, 7 linen waistcoats, 7 prs of thread stockings, 6 nightcaps, 2 prs of nankeen breeches, 1pr of ticken breeches, 1pr of sheets, 4 coats & waistcoats, 2 prs of breeches, 1 camblet cloak, 1 pr of silver shoe and knee buckles, 8 tortoise shell jacket buttons, 1 pr of broken Scotch Pebble sleeve buttons, 1 silver watch, 1 wig and wig box and 1 hat.   The tortoise shell jacket buttons are interesting as well as the broken scotch pebble sleeve buttons.  Wonder what those looked like?

Thanks for checking out the blog.   What would you like to see more of?   Leather breeches, fancy coats and waistcoats listed?    There is more to explore and there is some amazing clothing in the Carolinas during the 18th century for sure. 

Women's Clothing on the cusp of Revolution

 Guess who's back from a hiatus?  Your friendly history nerd, clothing geek and researcher....

Back in 2024, we had the 250th anniversary of the Edenton Tea Party which was a fun event to participate at - Got to be fancy with a chintz gown, big hair and such.   Anyhoo.....Things are starting to kick off this year with the 250th anniversary of two major events here in North Carolina - the battle of Moore's Creek and the Halifax Resolves. So thought this would be a good time to bring the blog back to life and share what I've been researching for the past few months.

So what are women wearing in the early to mid 1770s in North Carolina?  Checked, black and white silk bonnets, black silk hats, red, blue and green cloaks, calico gowns, striped gowns, white linen gowns, "short" gowns, quilted petticoats and etc.   I'll examine a few inventories and wills to show what women are wearing here in North Carolina prior to 1776.

Amelia Mott, 1771 New Hanover County, North Carolina

Inventory of Amelia Mott, 1771 New Hanover County, NC.  Source: New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina. Superior Court (New Hanover County)

Amelia has the following items: 1 Caster hat, 1 red cloak, 1 black silk hat, 1 old striped gown, 1 calico gown, 1 green shirt coat (petticoat), 1 shift, 1 bedgowns, 1 blue quilted petty coat, 1 bed gown, 1 shift, 1 old check apron, 1 calico gown, 1 check apron, 1 pr of gloves, 1 white apron, 1 homespun gown, 1 striped blue gown, 1 white bed gown, 1 old shift, 1 apron, 1 apron.

I love that they give detail (of sorts) to the gowns, striped, calico, homespun and even a striped blue gown.  While her bedgowns are generic in listing though she does have a "white" bed gown. Also note the blue quilted petty coat.

Barsheba Jones, 1772 Johnston County, North Carolina

Will of Barsheba Jones, 1772 Johnston County North Carolina.  Source: Johnston County, North Carolina Wills; Author: North Carolina. County Court of Pleas and Quarter Sessions (Johnston County)

Then we move in land to Johnston County, North Carolina where I found this gem within the past few days and absolutely love it as Barsheba gives the following items to her daughter Margaret Smith:

  1 quilted petticoat, 2 shifts, 1 pr of shoes and shoe buckles, 1 pr of worsted stockings and garters, 1 cap and handkerchief, 1 checked apron, 1 checked bonnet, silver sleeve buttons, 1 pr of leather gloves and choice of all the gowns.   While the rest of her clothes to be equally divided amongst the rest of all her daughters.  You wonder what else did she have in her wardrobe?

You may have notice that I bolded the word checked bonnet.   Yep, checked bonnets are here in North Carolina.  This is probably the latest I have seen reference to them.  I wish they would have noted if the bonnet was made of silk or of linen.    

Mary McConnell, 1774 Guilford County, North Carolina

Now we move even further inland to Guilford County and we find the will of Mary McConnell dated November of 1774. So Mary leaves to her daughter Mary Blyne: one gown and petticoat, her cloak and one pair of best blankets.  She bequeaths to her one daughter Martha Leacky one petticoat, a wraper and some bed curtains, then to her younger daughter she gives her one of her gowns .   Then on the next page she lists:

Mary McConnell will, Guilford County, NC:  Wills, 1771-1943; Author: North Carolina. County Court of Pleas and Quarter Sessions (Guilford County) Notes: Wills, Vol A-B, 1771-1838

She gives Margaret McBride daughter to Francis McBride her corded poplin gown; she leaves her shoe buckles to her son and then Agnes the daughter of James Blayer receives her bonnet.    What exactly is corded poplin?  Is it safe to guess that maybe Mary is a Quaker?   I haven't found evidence of that yet but something to look into.

Dorothy Seares, 1774 Wilmington, North Carolina

Back at the coast and in Wilmington proper......Dorothy's inventory lists 1 green silk umbrella, then down below it lists: 1 calico gown, 1 white linen gown, 1 white apron, 2 white caps, 1 pr of silver shoe buckles, and 2 plain gold rings.   

Dorothy Seares, 1774 New Hanover County, estate record and sale. New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina. Superior Court (New Hanover County)

In the sale of her estate, they list a gown and apron being sold at 17 shillings, 8 pence; while another gown is sold for 1 pound, 1 shilling - which gown was worth more?  The calico gown or the white linen?

Then we conclude with the records of two men's estates.  The 1775 estates of William Wooten in Hyde County, NC and Dr. James Ward of New Hanover County, NC.

Estate sale of William Wooten, 1775 Hyde County, NC.  Source: Hyde County, North Carolina Estate Records, 1735-1944

Being sold are the following items: 1pr of stays, 1 quilt (guessing quilted petticoat); 1 chintz gown, 1 apron, a capshen, 1 pr of sleeves, 1 gown, 1 hood, wearing apparel, and a gown body.

While Dr. James Ward has a few ladies' items in his inventory such as: 2 sprigged aprons, 1 silk gauze cap, 1 white silk bonnet, 1/2 yard of ribbon, 1 fan and 1 paper box. and 2 1/4 yards of striped lawn.  I'll probably go back to examine his estate in a later blog as he has a plethora of textiles and clothing.

Inventory of Dr. James Ward 1775 New Hanover County, NC.   New Hanover County, North Carolina Original Estate Records, Ca. 1741-1942; Author: North Carolina. Probate Court (New Hanover County), North Carolina. Superior Court (New Hanover County)

Thanks again for checking out my blog.   I hope you enjoyed these inventories and wills.   They let us have a sneak peek of the past and allow us to learn more.   Till next time.  Keep researching and always ask questions!